What to Know Before Visiting Cumberland Island (Essential First-Time Guide)
If you’ve been here awhile, you may have noticed a pattern in our vacations. Most of them involve wild horses and that’s by design. Our house has three horse crazy girls, (myself included) and spending our days chasing wild horses, is the most logical choice when planning a vacation.
This southern island is unique not only due to the presence of wild horses, but also due to the fact that it remains largely undeveloped. Visiting here is like stepping back in time to see coastal Georgia as it once appeared. With wild horses roaming freely, thick maritime forests, historic ruins and miles of untouched beaches, this island feels more like a preserved wilderness than a typical beach destination.
We loved this coastal gem so much, I designed a quick guide for first time visitors wanting to know what to expect from their trip. Be prepared to return though, this island is certainly not the type of place you visit only once.
Where Is Cumberland Island and How Do You Get There?
Cumberland Island is located off the coast of southern Georgia, just north of the Florida state line. It is Georgia’s largest barrier island and as such it is protected and largely undeveloped.
Access to the island is only by ferry, which departs from St. Mary’s, Georgia. Be sure to book your ferry tickets well in advance, especially during peak season as space is limited. Plan to arrive early to allow time for parking, check-in and loading gear. Late arrivals are not accepted.
A Brief History of Cumberland Island
The history of Cumberland Island dates back to the early Native American inhabitants and later Spanish Conquistadors. In the 1800s the island became a retreat for some of America’s wealthiest families including the well known Carnegie family. This family purchased large portions of the island and built grand estates.
One of the most famous of these estates was Dungeness, which was built in the 19th century and later rebuilt after a fire. Featuring dozens of rooms, formal gardens and incredible coastal views, a veritable playground for the rich and elite. In the early 20th century, the Carnegie family eventually stopped using the estate as a residence and in 1959 a destructive fire left the structure uninhabitable.
The estate was abandoned after and is now inhabited only by the wild horses and other wildlife roaming the island. Today the ruins offer a reminder of the island’s Golden era and a reminder that through time, nature reclaims everything.
Reminder: This is an Undeveloped Oasis
While I can’t stress enough how much we loved this little island, I also want you to be fully prepared at what we mean when we say undeveloped. There are truly no stores, restaurants, hotels or paved roads once you arrive. This island is protected as a national seashore, so you will experience it just as it existed decades ago. Here, the natural landscape takes priority over convenience.
Due to this, packing correctly is essential. You will need to pack everything you need for the day and be able to carry it with you all day long, as you will not find places to buy supplies on the island.
This also means amenities are limited. You won’t find many restrooms on the island, so be prepared to hit the woods if you need to go and you’re not located near the ferry dock or ranger station.
Wild Horses and Wildlife: What to Expect
Obviously one of Cumberland Island’s most famous features are the wild horses that freely roam the island. While the origins of the horses is unclear, popular thought is that the arrived with the Spanish conquistadors in the 16th century. However, it’s thought that more of the horses were the remnants of the Carnegie family who left behind the horses stabled at the Dungeness when they moved.
Wild horses aren’t the only wildlife you’ll encounter on the island. You may also spot amidillos, deer, a wide variety of birds and perhaps even an alligator! Keep in mind that it is important to observe all wildlife from a safe distance, protecting both you and the animal and preserving the island’s natural balance.
What to Pack for Cumberland Island
Like I mentioned, you’ll need to be really intentional in what you pack for this trip. While lots of people chose to camp, we made our trip just a day trip as we still were exploring Amelia Island also.
Our packs had to be carried with us all day, and we quickly realized we’d overpacked and in doing so overloaded our two girls. Poor Dad had to double up packs and we split alot of their supplies into our packs just to make it through the day.
That said – there still are some absolute essentials you won’t want to miss:
- Lots of water
- Sunscreen
- Bug spray – there’s horse poop everywhere and bugs congregate around it.
- Food and snacks
- Small first aid kit
- Comfortable shoes
- Swimsuit and quick dry towel
- Trash bag
- Camera or phone – you’re going to want lots of pictures!
Best Time to Visit Cumberland Island
Due to it’s location in the southern US, Cumberland Island’s weather varies by season. Knowing to to expect can help you plan a more enjoyable visit. Summer months are hot here, with temperatures often climbing into the 90, while winter is milder and quieter, though colder temps mean that beach time is less ideal.
Another consideration to take when planning your trip is the presence of bugs. Due to the prevalence of horses, there’s a heavy presence of manure throughout the island. This attracts lots of bugs. Bugs are worst here from late spring to early fall, especially biting flies and mosquitos.
We visited in late March and found the bugs annoying but tolerable. The ocean waters were extremely cold, which didn’t stop the kids, but kept their dad and I out. I think late April – mid May would be our target for our next visit. We’d like to take advantage of the warmer temps without dipping into the crowds and sweltering heat that come with summer. October through early November might also be good options, though perhaps a bit cooler.
Camping and Lodging Options
There are only two options for staying on the island. Visitors can choose between camping or staying at the Greyfield Inn.
Greyfield Inn is an all inclusive bed and breakfast located on the island. This inn was once a home owned by the Carnegie family, who later opted to convert it to an inn and still oversee the property. The inn boasts the luxury of a grand hotel with the comforts and charm for a family home. However, these conveniences come with a decent sized price tag. Rooms start at about $1,000 a night, with 2-3 night stay minimum.
The other option for lodging on the island is camping. Camping on the island does require a permit from the National Park Service. Reservations are highly recommended, especially during peak season.
You can also stay off the island which is what we opted to do. We opted to stay a little further south in Amelia Island, but read that there are lots of lodging options in St. Mary’s where the ferry departs from.
Getting Around the Island
Due to its undeveloped land and the lack of paved roads Cumberland Island is best explored by foot or bike. The island itself is 17.5 miles long so you should be prepared for long walking distances. Trails on the island are mostly sandy paths and maritime forest trails so comfortable shoes are a must.
We chose to bring bikes for our trip and biked over 10 miles in one day. The sandy roads made biking a bit difficult as the wheels dug into the sand and required extra effort. Do this daily and you’re sure to have calves of steel.
I saw lots of people zipping around on e-bikes and think on our next trip we will splurge on those. We did also see some guided tours with vans driving on the island and the shuttle taking guests to the inn, but that was the extent of vehicles we saw beyond a few park rangers.
Rules and Restrictions You Should Know
It’s important to note that pets are not allowed on Cumberland Island in order to protect the island’s fragile ecosystem. Keep in mind that all the island’s animals – horses included – are truly wild, so be sure to keep a safe distance at all times. The horses have been known to bite and kick at guests who venture too close.
Cell service on the island is limited and unreliable so be sure to plan ahead and download maps or information before arriving. Also be sure to follow Leave No Trace guidelines by properly disposing of all trash, staying on designated trails and respecting nature and the island’s historical spots.
Is Cumberland Island Worth Visiting?
In one word, YES! Cumberland Island is perfect for adventurers looking for nature, history and quiet unspoiled places in one location. It’s especially rewarding for visitors who enjoy self-exploration and enjoy the slower place this island brings.
That said, Cumberland Island could be a challenge for travelers accustomed to convenience or resort-style amenities. It would also be difficult for those with physical handicaps or needing accessibility features. The long walking distances, minimal resources and spotty cell service require planning and flexibility. Most of all, visit with realistic expectations. The island offers wild and untamed beauty for those willing to forgo a bit of comfort to experience it.
Final Tips for First-Time Visitors to Cumberland Island
Cumberland Island rewards visitors who come prepared and willing to slow down. Common mistakes – underestimating distances, not staying hydrated, or getting too close to wildlife – can make or break your experience. Planning ahead makes all the difference.
Before you go, double check the basics: ferry tickets, sturdy shoes and sun protection packed, and plenty of bug spray, food and water at the ready. Most importantly, give yourself permission to slow down and explore at a relaxed pace. Let the history and wildness of the island take over and it’s sure to be a magical adventure you’ll never forget!
